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Bathtubs buying guide


This page holds the full range of baths at The Blue Space, from a short inset bath to a long freestanding soaker. Most are acrylic, many are solid surface or stone, and one is steel. Bath, bathtub and bath tub all name the same fixture. The choices that matter are the same whichever word you use: how the bath sits in the room, how big it is, what it is made from, what comes in the box, and who fits it. The sections below take those in order, and each type and size links to its own collection when you want to compare models.

How the bath sits in the room

Start with the installation type, because it sets the plumbing, the tiling and the floor plan before any model is chosen. An inset bath, also called a built-in or alcove bath, is enclosed by walls or a tiled hob. It needs a tiled surround or frame, careful waterproofing and the right fall in the hob. A freestanding bath is finished on every side, so it needs floor plumbing or a freestanding mixer and more clearance around it. A back to wall bath has one flat edge against the wall, and that wall should be flat, plumb and sealed. A corner bath fills a corner on two finished sides and comes in left and right hand versions.

The collections for each type are freestanding baths, back to wall baths, corner baths and built in baths. Two more formats sit between them. An island bath is set into a tiled island hob and can stand anywhere in the room, and the Caroma Luna island bath has no gap behind it for dust to collect. A shower bath is an inset bath shaped for a shower over it, and the Decina Modena has a slip resistant pattern on the base for safer entry and exit.

If the room has an existing recess, the alcove question is mostly about the surround. A tile flange bath has a flange along the edge so the wall tiling runs over it. The Caroma Stirling steel bath has a four tile flange design that lets the bath sit right against the wall and be tiled over the flange to make a water and dust tight seal. The baths for tile edge page collects those, and the steel baths page has the enamelled steel option.

Sizes that fit a bathroom

Bath lengths fall into bands. Lengths of 1400mm to 1500mm are small, 1500mm to 1700mm is standard, and 1800mm and over is large, with 1700mm the most common length for a family home. Built-in baths run about 1500mm to 1700mm long and 700mm to 800mm wide, and freestanding baths run 1500mm to 1800mm long with compact designs from about 1400mm. The baths here sit inside those bands. Lengths run from 1300mm to 1800mm and most widths from 700mm to 900mm, while corner and round baths are wider on both axes.

Three collections split the range by length. Baths under 1500mm suits a short wall, 1500mm to 1700mm baths covers the standard band, and baths over 1700mm is for rooms with the length to spare. Small baths are shorter or narrower models for en suites and apartments.

Reading the dimensions on a bath

A bath has more than one length and more than one depth, and they answer different questions. The overall length and width decide whether it fits the wall. The height decides how high the rim sits above the floor, which runs from about 400mm on an inset bath to 750mm on a tall freestanding bath. The inner depth is the figure that matters for soaking, and the values here run from 410mm to 490mm. About 450mm to 480mm is a comfortable middle. A bath at the shallow end of the range sits below that, and one at the top sits above it.

Materials and what they do

Acrylic is the material most of these baths use. It has a non-porous surface that wipes clean, a moulded shape and a support frame. Several baths have an inbuilt steel frame with adjustable legs, which is how the bath sits solid and levels on a floor that is not perfectly flat. A good acrylic bath should not flex or creak, and thicker walls hold heat longer, while thin acrylic can flex if it is poorly supported. The acrylic bathtubs collection shows the full range.

Solid surface and stone baths are the other main group. Solid surface is a dense stone and resin blend that is warm to the touch, does not flex, resists staining and holds heat well. The cost of that density is weight. Stone and solid surface baths here run from about 50kg up to 154kg empty, which is why the floor capacity should be checked for an upstairs bathroom or an older house, and a large stone bath full of water weighs far more than its empty weight. Stone baths are collected on their own page.

Weight and the floor

The floor carries the bath, the water and the bather together. An empty acrylic bath is light, but a full bath with a person in it weighs several times that, and a stone bath weighs far more. On a concrete slab that is rarely a concern. On a timber floor, or in an upstairs bathroom, ask the builder to confirm the floor structure before the bath is ordered, and plan the position of joists against the waste. A bath on adjustable feet spreads the load through the feet or the frame, so the number and position of the feet matter, and a level, flat floor under them keeps the shell from twisting.

Overflow, waste and plug

Overflow and waste are the detail most often missed. On many baths the plug and waste are sold separately, and several baths have no overflow, so the waste is chosen to suit the bath and the tapware. A bath with an overflow has one built into the body, and a non-overflow bath does not. Waste size differs by bath: the Otti Hampton comes with a 40mm pop-up waste included, and the Turner Hastings Kirkham Ball needs a 40mm waste with overflow.

Spa baths and shower baths

A spa bath adds a pump and jets to the bath shape. The Decina Elisi has twelve flush mounted jets in two sizes plus a flush suction, a remote control in place of rim controls, and a 750 watt pump at the end of the bath under the perimeter. It has a centre waste with an integrated overflow and suits two bathers. The spa baths collection lists the other models and their jet layouts. A shower bath is a different product: it is an inset bath with a flatter base and a slip resistant pattern, shaped to take a screen or a shower panel, and the shower baths page covers those.

A shower over the bath

A bath with a shower over it saves a room and suits a family bathroom, but it only works if the bath is the right size. Allow a length of at least 1500mm and a width of at least 700mm for a shower over a bath, and a flat base with a slip resistant pattern makes standing in it safer. Plan a screen or a curtain to keep the water in the bath, tile the wall to the height of the shower, and fit a hand shower or a rail shower so the water does not run down the wall behind the taps. The shower baths page holds the shapes made for the job.

Installing a bath

Bath installation is trade work. The water and waste connections must be done by licensed trades, and wet area waterproofing follows the National Construction Code and AS 3740 for domestic wet areas. The waste connection and floor cut-out decisions are for a suitably qualified person, and tapware connections follow AS/NZS 3500 with a qualified plumber.

For a back to wall bath the order of work is this. Fit a 40mm overflow pop-up waste and prepare the floor for it, then rest the bath on wooden blocks over the waste connections and test for leaks with water. Level the bath on its adjustable feet last. Freestanding baths have adjustable self supporting feet or an inbuilt steel frame with adjustable legs for the same reason. Before delivery, check the width of the doorway and any turns in the hall, because a bath that clears a bathroom door can still catch on the way there.

Cleaning and care

Rinse after each use and wipe with a soft sponge or microfibre cloth, warm water and a pH neutral cleaner. Avoid bleach, ammonia, abrasive powders, steel wool and scouring pads. Once a week, give the bath a deeper clean with a cream cleanser that is not abrasive, and descale with a mild vinegar solution or a descaler made for baths, keeping vinegar off natural stone. Test any new product on a small hidden spot first.

Bath brands on this page

The baths here come from a mix of makers, and each one has its own collection if you want to see a single range. Caroma baths sit beside Decina baths, which include spa, inset and shower models. Turner Hastings baths include the TitanCast freestanding range. Bao baths, Fienza baths, Kaskade stone baths, BelBagno baths, Clark baths, ADP baths and Otti baths complete the list.

Choosing between the options

The decision usually settles in three steps. Measure the wall and the doorway first, which narrows the type and the length. Choose the material by the floor and the soak you want: acrylic for a lighter bath that is simpler to carry and fit, solid surface or stone for a heavier bath that holds heat longer. Then read the product page for overflow, waste and the support frame, so it is clear what arrives in the box and what does not before the plumber books a day. If the room is small, small baths and baths under 1500mm are the first places to look. If the room is open and the bath is meant to be the feature, freestanding baths and baths over 1700mm give the most choice.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is a freestanding bath and is it suitable for my bathroom?

A freestanding bath is a bathtub that stands independently on the floor with no enclosing walls or built-in surround, it's visible on all sides and is typically the centrepiece of the bathroom. Freestanding baths suit larger bathrooms where there's adequate floor space around the unit. They are one of the most popular design choices in Australian master bathrooms and ensuites.

What size freestanding bath do I need?

Standard freestanding baths in Australia range from 1400mm to 1800mm in length. A 1500mm bath suits most adults comfortably and fits in ensuites with a floor area of around 2.5–3 sqm or more. A 1700mm bath offers a more generous soak. Always measure the available floor space and allow clearance on all sides for both plumbing access and aesthetic breathing room.

How do I choose between a back to wall bath and a freestanding bath?

The key differences are floor space, plumbing flexibility, and aesthetic. A freestanding bath suits larger bathrooms where plumbing can be positioned centrally. A back to wall bath is a better choice for smaller or narrower bathrooms, or where wall-mounted taps are preferred. Both can achieve a high-end look, the back to wall format is simply a more practical solution for many Australian bathroom layouts.

What is a corner bath and how does it differ from a standard bath?

A corner bath is designed to fit into the corner of a bathroom, with the tub angling into the room and two flat sides sitting flush against the walls. This configuration is space-efficient in layouts where a standard alcove bath doesn't fit, and it opens up the centre of the bathroom.

What is a back to wall bath?

A back to wall bath has a flat back panel designed to sit flush against the bathroom wall, while the front and sides have a freestanding design that's visible. This gives the appearance of a freestanding bath while using the wall for structural support and plumbing concealment. Tapware is usually wall-mounted behind or beside the bath, and the waste is hidden within the wall or floor.

What types of bath taps are available in Australia?

Wall-mounted bath mixers and spouts are fixed to the wall above or beside the bath, they create a clean, uncluttered look and suit most built-in and back-to-wall bath styles. Hob-mounted (deck-mounted) bath taps sit on the rim or surrounding ledge of the bath. Freestanding floor-mounted bath mixers are a statement option for freestanding baths, the tapware stands independently on the floor beside or behind the bath and is supplied through plumbing brought up through the floor. Finally, over-bath shower systems combine a bath filler spout with an integrated shower, offering versatility in smaller bathrooms.

What's the difference between a bathtub and a jacuzzi or spa bath?

A standard bathtub is a still-water vessel with no moving parts beyond the tap and waste. A jacuzzi or spa bath adds jets and a pump to circulate water, which means extra plumbing, an electrical connection, and more maintenance to keep the jet lines clean. Most bathroom renovations in Australia use a standard bathtub rather than a spa bath, largely because of the simpler installation and upkeep.

What is a Japanese-style bathtub?

Often called an ofuro-style tub, this is a deep, compact bath designed for sitting upright with knees bent rather than lying flat, so it delivers a deep soak in a smaller floor footprint than a standard Western-style bath. It suits bathrooms where floor space is limited but a proper soaking bath is still wanted. If that's the brief, small baths is the more relevant collection to browse for compact, deep-soak options.

What determines how much a bathtub costs?

Size, material and installation type all factor in more than brand alone. A compact acrylic bath in a simple built-in configuration sits at one end of the range, while a large stone composite freestanding bath with wall-mounted floor tapware sits at the other. Installation labour, particularly waterproofing and tiling for a built-in bath, is a real cost on top of the product itself. Rather than one figure, it's more useful to browse by size and installation type and compare like-for-like options.

What installation types are available for a bathtub?

The main categories are freestanding (fully exposed, no wall contact), built-in or alcove (set into a tiled recess on three sides), back to wall (against a wall but with a finished front panel, so no tiling needed on the exposed sides), and corner baths for awkward layouts. Each has different space, tiling and plumbing implications, covered on the built-in baths, back to wall baths and shower over bath pages.

What size bath do I need?

Standard Australian baths run roughly 1500mm to 1700mm in length, with compact options below that and longer models above it. The right length comes down to the room's floor space and who's using the bath day to day. For the two ends of that range, see small baths for tighter rooms and baths over 1700mm for larger bathrooms or taller users.

What material should I choose for a bathtub?

Acrylic is the most common choice, it's lightweight, holds heat reasonably well and is the most budget-friendly to buy and install. Stone composite (sometimes marketed as solid surface) is heavier, more rigid underfoot and generally regarded as a step up in feel and finish. Cast iron is the most durable and heat-retentive option but is significantly heavier, which can matter for upper-floor installations. There's no single correct answer, it depends on budget, weight tolerance for the floor, and how the bath will be used.