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Smart Door Locks and Digital Door Locks

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    Zanda Stealth Smart Lock Deadbolt Ember Bronze

    Zanda Stealth Smart Lock Deadbolt Ember Bronze

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Smart door locks buying guide


A smart door lock replaces or adds to the key lock on a door and opens it with a PIN, a fingerprint, a card, a phone or a key. The choice starts with the door you have, because a smart lock is a lock first: its format, its backset and the hole in the door decide what fits. This collection holds smart deadbolts, smart levers, push and pull mortice locks, retrofit upgrades for an existing deadlatch, and the cards that go with them. This guide sets out how smart locks work, the formats, what happens when power or Wi-Fi fails, which numbers decide fit and how to keep one secure. For other entrance locks, see entry door lock sets and deadbolts.

How a smart lock works

Smart locks use Bluetooth, Wi-Fi or both. Bluetooth works only within range of the lock, and some locks need it only during setup. Wi-Fi allows remote access and real-time updates, but it may need a bridge that adds cost. Unlock methods include PIN codes, fingerprints, sometimes facial recognition, key fobs, a phone app, remote access and temporary codes. Security features include access logs, auto lock, which typically runs between 5 and 30 seconds, and user accounts with admin controls. The product pages in this collection show the same set: the Yale locks list PIN, fingerprint, card, app and key options, and the Zanda Stealth locks list fingerprint, code and Bluetooth, with a Wi-Fi bridge for remote access.

Lock formats

The format matters more than the brand. There are four types. A key turner fits over an existing deadbolt and is operated by an app, so it needs a compatible lock. A deadbolt is a bar that slides between the door and frame. A mortice lock houses the mechanism in a rectangular pocket inside the door edge, and retrofitting one is labour intensive. A barrel-only lock is a small tube that fits the deadbolt bore, with few backup entry options. A fifth starting point: identify your existing lock first, whether lever, nightlatch, bored deadbolt or mortice, because a lock in a different format needs a different hole in the door. For handles with the lock built in, see exterior door levers.

The smart locks in this collection

The Yale Libi digital lever and deadbolt suit a standard 54mm bore on doors 35 to 45mm thick, with the backset adjustable to 60mm or 70mm and a mechanical key override. The Yale Assure lever and Assure SL deadbolt suit doors with a single hole, with four AA batteries, the Yale Home Module and a door sensor in the box. The Yale Luna Pro+, Kyra Pro and ByYou Pro are push and pull mortice locks for doors 35 to 100mm thick on a 60mm backset. The Luna Pro+ has face recognition with up to 100 PIN codes, 100 face credentials and 50 fingerprints, and the Kyra Pro holds up to 100 PIN codes, 100 key tags and 50 fingerprints. The Yale Unity is an entrance lock and as a security screen door lock. The Zanda Stealth deadbolt and longplate locks suit retrofit on timber and aluminium doors on a 60mm backset, with a weatherproof IP66 rating. The Lockwood 001 Touch Plus upgrades an existing 001 deadlatch, and the external cylinder is replaced by a keypad, with no key override.

If the power or Wi-Fi fails

Smart locks are battery powered, most have a charge indicator, and everything except the keyhole stops working when the batteries die. It adds that some locks accept emergency power through a USB port, such as from a power bank, as a temporary measure, and that key turners have no emergency input, so a spare key matters. Most smart locks run on their own batteries, so they usually keep working in a blackout, and a Wi-Fi outage stops remote control and phone alerts but not entry at the door with a code, fingerprint, Bluetooth or key. The practical rule is to check the batteries regularly and to know the backup before you need it. Plan on a battery change every 6 to 12 months, and the Yale Assure and Unity take four AA batteries.

Backup key

Most locks keep a standard keyhole as a failsafe if the phone, code or electronics fail, and keyless designs leave no physical backup. The product pages differ. The Yale Libi lever lists a C4 cylinder with a mechanical key override, and the Yale Luna Pro+ and Kyra Pro list two mechanical keys. The Lockwood 001 Touch Plus has no key override, so it relies on the keypad, the app and the batteries. Keep a mechanical key accessible outside the home where the lock supports one, and test the documented backup method after installation. Choose a lock with a keyhole if a lock-out would be a problem for your household.

Numbers that decide fit

Choose a lock that fits your existing door holes, and check the backset, which is the distance from the door edge to the centre of the lock, and the bore diameter. Measure the door thickness as well. The numbers. The Yale Libi suits doors 35 to 45mm thick with a 54mm bore, the Yale mortice locks suit doors 35 to 100mm on a 60mm backset, and the Zanda Stealth locks list a 60mm backset. Other makers' ranges include 35 to 80mm doors with a 60 or 70mm backset, and a lock sold overseas may not be a drop-in swap for an Australian nightlatch or mortice lock. Photograph the existing holes on both sides of the door before you choose.

Installing

Most people with basic tools can install a smart lock, though a mortice conversion may need drilling or chiselling and may require a locksmith, and almost all smart locks need a smartphone for setup. Read the exact model's instructions before deciding between a DIY fit and a locksmith, get a locksmith for any lock format change or frame alteration, and test entry, locking and backup access before switching on automatic or remote functions. It also advises renters to get landlord permission first for new holes or frame changes. The product pages carry door templates and installation instructions.

Security

Practical advice helps. Use strong, unique passwords and change them periodically, turn on two-factor authentication where offered, switch on automatic updates and favour brands that commit to a long support period. Bluetooth data can be intercepted without proper encryption, and specific standards such as AES-256 are better than vague claims. Remove former users, housemates and partners and delete their codes. Burglars more often force the door physically than attack a lock electronically, and a strong deadbolt and a metal strike plate make a door harder to kick in. A smart lock is one part of door security, not a replacement for a sound door and frame.

Are smart locks worth it

The trade-offs are balanced. The benefits are no lock-outs, remote control, temporary codes for guests and tradespeople, and access logs. The disadvantages are the higher cost than a standard lock, the battery changes, the dependence on Wi-Fi or Bluetooth for remote features and a short learning curve. For a front door where several people come and go, or where you want a log of entry, the case is clear. For a door used by one person who never loses keys, a good mechanical lock may be enough. Decide on the use, then the format, then the finish.

What the apps and features do

Each lock has its own app side. The Yale Home App locks and unlocks the door from a phone, grants one-time access to others and grants access for a set period of time. The Yale Unity has lock activity logs showing who accessed the lock and when, and an auto unlock function that uses Bluetooth, Wi-Fi and location. It works with Apple Home Key, so an iPhone or Apple Watch can be tapped for access. The Lockwood 001 Touch Plus works with the Yale Home App, auto unlock as you approach and a door position sensor that reports whether the door is open or closed. The Zanda Stealth has remote access through the Zanda app with a Wi-Fi bridge, Bluetooth app control without a gateway, auto-lock, a passage mode, and sharing of digital keys. The same kinds of features appear across brands: access logs, auto lock, away mode and passage mode. Features differ by model, so read the product page for the ones you need.

Choosing a format for your door

Match the lock to the door you already have. A door with a single hole and no deadbolt suits a smart lever such as the Yale Assure lever, which installs on doors with a single hole. A door with a bored deadbolt suits a smart deadbolt such as the Yale Libi or Assure SL, or the Zanda Stealth deadbolt, which suits retrofit on both timber and aluminium doors. A door already cut for a mortice lock suits a mortice smart lock such as the Yale Luna Pro+, Kyra Pro or ByYou Pro, because converting to a mortice lock is labour intensive. A door with a 001 deadlatch suits the Lockwood 001 Touch Plus upgrade. If your door matches none of these, a locksmith can advise before you buy.

Single hole, deadbolt or push and pull

The three families differ in what you grip. A smart lever keeps a handle and adds a keypad, so the door is still opened by turning the handle. A smart deadbolt has no handle, so it sits beside the existing handle or pull and locks the door with a bolt. A push and pull mortice lock combines the handle and lock in one body, with the door opened by pushing or pulling. The Yale push and pull mortice product pages are for doors 35 to 100mm thick, a wider range than the Yale lever and deadbolt product pages. The product page dimensions show the size of the lock body, with the Luna Pro+ at 421mm by 104mm and the Kyra Pro at 420mm by 76mm, so check the door and the frame for room.

Passage mode and auto lock

Two features change how a lock behaves day to day. Auto lock re-locks the door after a delay, and the delay is typically 5 to 30 seconds. Passage mode keeps the door unlocked so that it can be used freely, for example during a party or a trade visit, and passage mode sits among the security features alongside away mode and lock down mode. The Zanda Stealth has both auto-lock and passage mode. Decide if you want the door to lock itself.

Screen doors, sliding doors and handles

Some entrances need a different lock. For security screen doors, see smart screen door locks, screen door locks and screen door hardware. For electronic locks in other finishes, see electronic door hardware and digital smart entrance sets. For sliding doors, see sliding door handles. The Lane Grande electronic cards in this collection work with the Lane Grande deadbolts and pull handles; see Lane door levers and Lane deadbolts.

Finishes and matching

Match the lock to the handle and hinges on the door. The collection lists black, chrome, brushed nickel, gunmetal, gold and bronze. See matte black door handles, brushed nickel door handles, chrome door handles and brass door handles. For Zanda hardware to match the Stealth locks, see Zanda door hardware, and for deadbolts in other makes, see Lockwood deadbolts.

The locks on this page are the Zanda Stealth Smart range, the Yale Libi Digital, Assure Keyed, Assure SL, Unity Entrance, Unity Security, Luna Pro+, Kyra Pro and ByYou Pro locks, the Lane Grande electronic lock and the Lockwood 001 Touch. Start with the lock format on your door, then choose the unlock methods you want, because the PIN, fingerprint or card options differ per model. Use the product page to confirm the batteries, the door thickness range and whether a Wi-Fi bridge is needed.

Credentials, sharing and who each lock suits

These locks differ most in how people get in and how many users you can set up. The limits, so read them before you choose a format.

How many people and methods

The Yale Luna Pro+ lists face recognition using 3D structured light, a fingerprint scan, a personal PIN code, an RFID card and the Yale Home App. It stores up to 100 PIN codes, 100 facial credentials and 50 fingerprints. The Yale Kyra Pro lists a fingerprint, PIN, RFID key tag and the app, with up to 100 PIN codes, 100 key tags and 50 fingerprints. The Yale ByYou Pro lists fingerprint and PIN access for up to 100 users each, and it works with Apple Home Key, so you can tap an iPhone or Apple Watch to enter. The ByYou comes with a matt black handle, and champagne gold and silver handles are included in the box so you can change it.

Sharing access

The Yale Home App lets you lock and unlock from your phone, grant one-time access, grant access for a set period or a date range, check the door status and keep track of visitor access. A time-limited code can end by itself, so nobody has to change a key.

No phone required

Not every lock depends on a phone. The Yale Libi uses a touchscreen keypad and traditional keys, and no smartphone connection is required. It fits a standard 54mm bore and replaces an existing deadbolt without power tools. A mechanical key override remains if the battery goes flat. That makes the Libi the simple step for someone moving away from keys without wanting an app.

Weatherproof options

The Zanda Stealth is weatherproof to IP66, with fingerprint, PIN and Bluetooth unlocking, and it is compatible with timber and aluminium doors and suits retrofit work. It works over Bluetooth without a gateway, and a Wi-Fi bridge adds remote access through the Zanda app. It also lists auto-lock and a passage mode. For an exposed entrance, that weather rating is the number to compare.

Our recommendation

Start with the door you have. Identify the existing lock type, measure the thickness, the backset and the bore, and choose a smart lock in that format. Choose a model with a keyhole if a lock-out would be costly, check how remote access works and whether a bridge is needed, and plan the battery changes. Treat the lock as one part of security and set a strong password, turn on updates and remove old users. That order avoids the common mistakes: a lock that does not fit the door, a keyless lock with no backup, and a remote feature that depends on a bridge you did not buy.

Treat a smart lock as a lock first. Check that the door and frame are sound, that the bolt throws into a solid strike, and that the lock fits the door preparation you already have. Then set up the app, add the people who need access, and test every unlock method with the door open before you close it. Keep a mechanical key somewhere safe, and replace the batteries on a schedule, not when the lock warns you.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the difference between a privacy set and an entrance set?

A privacy set can only be locked from inside, with emergency external release only, there is no keyed cylinder. An entrance set uses a keyed cylinder for external locking, providing security from outside. Privacy sets are for internal use only; entrance sets are for external-facing or high-security internal doors.

What security rating should I look for in an entrance door handle?

In Australia, look for entrance handle sets that comply with AS 4145 (Mechanical Locksets) and are rated Grade 1 or Grade 2 for security. Premium brands like Yale and Lockwood carry appropriate ratings. If your home is in a high-humidity coastal area, ensure the handle finish is rated for external use, stainless steel, marine-grade finishes, or PVD coatings perform best in coastal environments.

What is an entrance handle set?

An entrance handle set is a door handle set designed specifically for the front or entry door of a home. It includes a keyed cylinder lock integrated into the handle or separate lockset, providing external security. Entrance sets are available in a range of styles from contemporary to traditional and must be rated for external use, exposed to the elements, with weather-resistant finishes.

Is a smart door lock actually worth installing?

For many households, yes, the main appeal is not needing a physical key day to day: a keypad code, phone app or fingerprint can unlock the door instead, and codes can be issued or revoked for family, cleaners or short-term guests without cutting a new key. It's a genuine upgrade in convenience over a mechanical lock, though it comes with power and connectivity considerations a traditional lock doesn't have.

What are the disadvantages of a smart door lock?

They rely on a power source, usually replaceable batteries, so a flat battery can lock you out if there's no backup access method. Wi-Fi or app-connected models depend on a working internet or Bluetooth connection for remote features, and any electronic device is a more complex thing to service or replace than a simple mechanical latch. Cost is generally higher than an equivalent mechanical lockset too.

How do smart door locks get power, and what happens if the battery dies?

Almost all smart locks run on replaceable batteries, commonly AA or a rechargeable pack, rather than mains power, so there's no wiring involved in most installations. A genuinely well-designed smart lock includes a mechanical key override or an external backup method (like a keypad code that still works on residual power, or a 9V terminal to jump-start a dead battery from outside) precisely so a flat battery doesn't lock you out.

Do smart door locks still have a physical key?

Most residential smart locks include a mechanical key override as a backup, even though daily use is meant to be keyless. This matters for two reasons: it covers a dead battery or electronic fault, and it satisfies most Australian building and insurance expectations that an external door retain a genuine mechanical locking option, not just an electronic one.

What access methods do smart locks typically offer?

Common options include a numeric keypad, a smartphone app over Bluetooth or Wi-Fi, a fingerprint sensor, and a physical key or fob as backup. Higher-end models often support several of these together, so a household isn't limited to just one method, useful when different household members prefer different ways to get in.

Can a smart lock be fitted to any front door?

Compatibility depends on the door's existing lock prep, backset, and whether it currently uses a standard deadbolt or lever lock body, since most smart locks are designed to retrofit onto common lock formats rather than needing a completely new door preparation. Checking the existing hardware's specifications against the smart lock's fitting requirements before buying avoids a mismatch. For the security-grading side of an entry door generally, see entry door lock sets.