Door hinges buying guide
A door hinge carries the whole weight of the door, opens and closes it thousands of times, and sits in plain sight on the hinge side. The right choice depends on four things: the type of hinge, the size, how many the door needs, and whether the finish matches the handles. This collection holds butt hinges in loose pin, fixed pin, bearing, fast-fix and lift-off types, concealed hinges for heavy doors, and one glass-to-glass shower hinge. This guide sets out how each type works, where each one belongs, how many hinges a door needs and where they go, and what each product page sells. For the wider range, see door hardware.
Loose pin or fixed pin
The first decision is the pin. A loose pin hinge has a pin that can be tapped out, so the door can be lifted off without removing the hinge plates. That helps when a door is painted, sanded or removed for a delivery. Use loose pin hinges on internal doors only, because an external door has to stay secured. A fixed pin hinge keeps the pin in place, so the door cannot be lifted off from outside. It suits doors of average weight, and it is the safer choice for external doors and any door where security matters.
The product pages follow the same split. The Lockwood Vivid 100mm hinge and the Zanda loose pin hinge suit internal doors that can be removed for fitting or maintenance. The Zanda fixed pin hinge and the Lane fixed pin hinges add security and suit internal or external doors. The Lane 85mm fixed pin hinge suits external doors as well as internal ones.
Bearing, fast-fix and lift-off hinges
A ball bearing hinge has bearings built into the knuckle that reduce friction, which makes the door move quietly and smoothly. They suit heavy or thick doors, including solid timber, and busy doorways. The Zanda bearing hinge is reducing the friction that causes squeaking and gradual wear.
A fast-fix hinge, also sold as a hirline or quick-fix hinge, does not need a recess cut into the timber, which makes fitting quicker and suits a door that should sit flush with no visible recess. The Zanda fast-fix bearing hinge combines the bearing with that quick fitting and comes as a fixed pin, in 100 by 70mm.
A lift-off hinge lets the door come away without opening the hinge, so the door lifts clear while the plates stay fixed. Lift-off hinges suit bathrooms and toilets where an inward-opening door may be blocked, because the door can be lifted out. Lift-off hinges are handed: the Zanda and Lane products ask you to choose left hand or right hand, and they are sold individually or as a pair with handing chosen at the product page. See Zanda hinges for the range.
Concealed hinges for heavy doors
A concealed hinge is hidden when the door is closed, which suits flush and frameless designs. The Zanda 3D adjustable concealed hinges come in two ratings, 60kg with a 150-degree opening and 90kg with a 175-degree opening. They adjust in three directions, depth, vertical and horizontal, so the door can be lined up with the wall, and they are reversible for right-hand and left-hand doors. Choose the rating from the weight of the door leaf.
How many hinges, and where
The number of hinges depends on the door type. Exterior doors need at least three hinges, which is standard practice in Australia. A door 2,200mm or taller, or wider than 1,000mm, takes a fourth. A lightweight hollow-core interior door commonly has two, although three is still preferred. The standard door size is 2,040 by 820 by 35mm.
Hinge positions follow a standard layout: the top hinge sits 150mm from the top of the door, the bottom hinge 230mm from the base, and any middle hinge goes midway between them. The positions must match on the door and the frame. The reasons are practical. Gravity and torque act on a door, so hinges go on the high side to resist drooping, three hinges reduce warping and spread the weight, and extra hinges make a door harder to force. More hinges also need more careful alignment.
Check what each product pages sells
Product pages sell hinges in different quantities, and mixing them up is the common ordering mistake. The Zanda hinges are sold per hinge, and three are typically required for a standard door installation. The Lane hinges are sold as a pair of two, with timber screws included. The Momo solid brass hinge is sold as a single hinge, with colour-matched screws. The lift-off hinges are sold individually. Work out the number you need from the count above, then divide by what the product page sells.
Sizes
The most common size on the product pages is 100 by 75 by 2.5mm, which suits a standard door opening. The Zanda 100 by 100 by 2.5mm size gives more bearing area, and its product page places it on heavier door leaves and external entries. Lane also sells a lighter radius hinge at 90 by 60 by 1.6mm for internal doors and an 85mm fixed pin butt hinge. The Momo solid brass hinge is 100 by 76mm and takes doors 35 to 50mm thick. Match the size to the hinge you are replacing so the existing recess still fits.
Measure the hinge you are replacing
Hinge sizes are written as height by total open width, for example 100 by 75mm. Height is measured along the leaves, and open width spans both leaves and the barrel. Record the leaf width, which is one side's width without the barrel, the thickness, which is roughly 2 to 4mm on many residential hinges, the number of screw holes and their spacing, and the door thickness. A leaf that is slightly narrower than the door thickness will not project past the door face. Screw patterns vary between makers and versions, so an exact match is not certain, and a replacement may need the recess patched, re-drilled or adjusted. A clear front-on photo of the old hinge helps when you compare it with a product page.
Other hinge types you may see
Not every type is sold in this collection, but these are the terms you will meet, so it helps to know them. A broad butt, also called wide throw, moves the pivot outward so a recessed door clears an architrave or wall and can open about 180 degrees, and it is often used on French and double doors. A parliament hinge has the same function with decorative cut-outs and a shorter barrel. An easy-fit or hirline hinge is thin and compact, usually without a full mortice, and suits lightweight internal, cupboard and some bi-fold doors. A dummy hinge is decorative only and does not support the door, so working hinges are still required. Heavy duty describes performance and not a shape: it can include ball-bearing, heavy-gauge fixed-pin and commercial hinges.
Common mistakes
These are the mistakes to avoid. Choosing by height and width alone, without checking leaf size, thickness, corner shape and screw pattern, is the first. Using a loose pin or lift-off hinge on an external door is the second, because an accessible removable pin can let the door be separated from the frame. Assuming fixed pin means heavy duty is the third: a fixed pin keeps the pin in place but tells you nothing about load. Others are using timber screws on metal doors, since the included screws are generally for timber, mixing makers or finish names, assuming one listed unit is a pair, and thinking that extra hinges can make up for an undersized hinge or a weak frame. They cannot. A lift-off hinge also needs headroom above the door, and a privacy latch on the same door may need an external release so the door can still be opened in an emergency.
Metal doors, fire doors and tested hardware
The screws included with most hinges are for timber. Metal doors and frames may need different fixings, threaded inserts, reinforcement or specialist installation, so check the frame material before ordering. Fire doors are a separate case: a fire door must use its approved hardware, fixings and installation method, and decorative hinges should not be substituted. If a door has a fire rating, ask the door supplier which hinge is tested for it before you choose a finish.
Materials
The materials are solid brass, 304 stainless steel and, for some Zanda sets, stainless steel with an electroplated finish. The Lockwood Vivid hinge has a 304 stainless steel body with a PVD finish. The Momo hinge is solid brass with a large-diameter stainless pin and brass bushings, which gives smooth operation over time. Stainless steel resists corrosion better than most metals, and 316 marine grade is the choice for harsher environments, with 304 for normal conditions. Iron and mild steel can rust in damp or exposed conditions, so for a coastal or damp door choose stainless or solid brass.
Fitting a hinge
The sequence matters. Start with a clean, dry door and frame, mark the hinge positions, and drill pilot holes slightly smaller than the screws. Fit the bottom hinge first with a helper holding the door, check the alignment by swinging the door, and test the latch. The Lane butt hinges need a section of the door edge and frame rebated so the hinge sits flush. A fast-fix hinge avoids that recess. Left-hand and right-hand closing doors use the same butt hinge.
Match the finish to the handles
Match the hinge finish to the handles so the hinge side does not become the one unmatched element in view. The finishes include matte black, stainless steel, graphite nickel, white, ember bronze, satin brass and brushed nickel. To shop by finish, see matte black door handles, brushed nickel door handles, brass door handles, bronze door handles, white door handles, chrome door handles and stainless steel door handles. For the rest of the set, see door handles, interior door handles and door stops.
Shower hinges
Hinges for glass are a different product. The Meir glass-to-glass shower door hinge is solid brass and suits 8mm or 10mm glass. For glass-to-wall and other shower hardware, see shower screen hardware.
Ranges by maker
Each brand has its own sizes, pins and finishes. See Lane door levers, Lockwood door levers and Momo architectural door hardware for matching handles.
Our recommendation
Choose the pin first, loose for internal doors you may remove and fixed for anything that needs security. Choose bearing hinges for heavy or busy doors and concealed hinges for flush designs. Work out the number of hinges from the height, width and weight of the door, then match the quantity to what the product page sells. Pick a finish that matches the handles. That order avoids the common mistakes: too few hinges on a tall door, a pair ordered where three singles were needed, and a hinge finish that does not match the handle.
Questions about door hinges
How do I measure a hinge?
Measure three things on the old hinge: the length from one end to the other, the width of one leaf, and the thickness. Calipers reduce error on the thickness and on gaps. Keep the tape straight and fully extended, read it at eye level, and measure twice. Then check the screw hole pattern against the new hinge, because the hinge has to sit in the existing recess. The product pages here give sizes such as 100 by 75 by 2.5mm, 100 by 100 by 2.5mm for heavier doors and external entries, and 100 by 70mm for the fast-fix hinges.
What are the main types of hinges?
The main types are butt hinges, piano hinges, concealed hinges and strap hinges. This collection is mostly butt hinges in loose pin and fixed pin versions, with bearing, fast-fix and lift-off versions, and the Zanda 3D adjustable concealed hinges rated for 60kg and 90kg doors. The loose pin lets the door lift off for painting or maintenance and suits internal doors. The fixed pin stays on and suits external doors.
Where should the hinges go on a door?
A common layout puts the top hinge 150mm from the top of the door and the bottom hinge 230mm from the base, with any middle hinge midway between them. The positions must match on the door and the frame. Follow the maker's guidance for the hinge you buy. An exterior door needs at least three hinges, a door taller than 2,200mm or wider than 1,000mm takes a fourth, and a light hollow-core interior door commonly has two, though three are preferred.
Fixing a sagging door
A door that sags or will not latch often has a hinge problem. There are three usual causes: something has moved so that the deadlock and keeper no longer line up, an older house has settled, and the gaps around the door have become uneven. Its simplest repair is to recess the top hinge, pack out the bottom hinge slightly to tilt the door up, and add a third hinge in the middle.
The supplies are three 100mm solid brass hinges that match the old hinges in size and screw-hole pattern, and 1 to 1.5mm plastic packers. Support the door on wedges, take off the top hinge last so the door does not fall, mark and chisel a housing for the middle hinge, and plug the old screw holes with glued matchsticks. Score along the hinge outline with a utility knife first, to keep the paint edge clean, and note that stripped screw holes can be filled and reused. Predrill the new hinges: top recessed, middle flush and bottom packed. Then cut matching housings in the jamb, rehang the door and check the swing before you fit the remaining screws.
Mistakes to avoid
Three mistakes come up often: ignoring the weight and material of the door, skipping the maker's instructions, and not double-checking. Check the weight capacity of the hinge against the door. Check the door height, width and thickness, the gap to the frame and the hinge positions before you drill. Keep the old hinges until the new ones are on, so you can compare the leaf size and the screw holes at any point.
Why the number of hinges matters
A door hangs by gravity and torque, so the hinges on the high side carry the pull and resist drooping. Three hinges reduce warping, and more hinges make a door harder to force. The cost is alignment: every extra hinge has to sit exactly in line with the others. For heavy or thick doors, a ball bearing hinge is quiet and sturdy. For an average door a fixed pin hinge is enough.
Hinge screws are the part most often overlooked. A hinge that is fitted with short or stripped screws will loosen within months and drop the door at the latch edge, which then makes every handle and latch on the door feel faulty. Fit hinges with screws long enough to reach solid timber in the frame, and if a screw hole has worn smooth, fill it with a timber dowel and glue and drill a fresh pilot hole. Check the gap around the door after fitting: an even gap on three sides shows the hinges are set correctly.
