Shower and bath taps buying guide
The tap in a shower has a few names. Most often it is a shower mixer, a wall mounted control with one lever that sets temperature and flow. In an older bathroom it is a pair of separate hot and cold taps, sold as wall top assemblies. Over a bath it can also be a diverter mixer, which sends the water to the shower or to the bath spout, or a freestanding bath filler. This page holds all of them. This guide explains what each type is, which parts come in the box, how wall mounting affects the decision, how a shower tap is replaced, and what to check before you order.
The main types of shower and bath tap
- Shower mixer. One handle controls temperature and flow for the shower. A retailer guide says a mixer mixes the water before it leaves the outlet, which reduces the risk of scalding, and that setting the temperature in one movement can reduce wasted water. See shower mixers.
- Bath and shower diverter mixer. One handle sets the temperature and a diverter switches the flow between the bath spout and the shower. The listings describe an integrated diverter that lets you change from the bath to the shower with ease.
- Wall top assemblies. A pair of separate hot and cold handles that fit on wall spindles, for a traditional bath or shower. The listings give a pair per pack, with an installation kit, and some also include a spout. They suit heritage rooms and like-for-like replacements. See three piece bathroom taps.
- Wall bath and basin sets. A spout and two handles for a wall mounted bath or basin. See wall basin and bath mixer sets.
- Bath fillers. A spout and a mixer for the bath, mounted on the wall, the hob or the floor. A floor standing bath mixer stands beside a freestanding bath, and a listing for one freestanding bath spout gives a height of 910mm. See bath fillers and freestanding bath mixers.
- Bath spouts. Wall spouts and swivel spouts that finish a bath or basin set. See swivel bath spouts and bath tub spouts.
Pick the type by how you use the bath and shower, then by the plumbing in the wall. A mixer is easier to use with wet hands. A pair of handles is more traditional and often the simplest swap in an older bathroom. A supplier guide says the choice between a mixer and a three piece set can need an adjustment to the plumbing layout, so settle it before you buy.
What comes in the box
The listings say what is included, and for shower taps this matters more than for any other kind of tap, because the part inside the wall is separate from the part you see. The shower mixer listings show the mixer, a dress plate, a handle, an in-wall kit and installation instructions. The shower and bath diverter listings show the same set, with the diverter. Some wall mixer listings show the trim kit and the in-wall body together. Others show only the handle, the dress plate and the in-wall kit, or only the trim. A bath filler listing shows the spout and an installation kit, and some floor standing mixers include a hand shower. Read the box contents on the listing before you add it to the cart, because a trim kit without its body will not work, and the body has to match the trim from the same range.
Wall mounted tapware and the plumbing behind it
A buying guide says to decide the installation method first, then how easily the tap can be serviced, then the look. A shower tap is wall mounted by definition, so the plumbing is roughed in before tiling and the decision is locked once the tiles go on. Settle it with your plumber early. A guide on changing bathroom taps notes that wall mounted taps often need professional installation. If you are replacing a shower tap and not building a new bathroom, the position of the existing wall outlets decides what you can fit. A new tap must line up with the old fittings. Photograph the old fitting from the front and from the side before you buy, and check the brand on the faceplate or handles. A plumbing supplier's guide lists wrong parts among the common mistakes.
Choosing the handle
A retailer guide separates handles into two groups. A pin lever is minimalist and easy to use. A paddle handle is wider and has a more indulgent look. The listings add a third: the cross handle of a traditional wall top assembly, with a jumper valve or a quarter turn ceramic disc. The Caroma Luna bath and shower mixer listing describes a paddle handle that is easy to grip and turn, which counts when your hands are wet. Lever handles are generally easier to operate than a round or cross handle for anyone with limited grip, and care ranges use extended levers.
Cartridge, pressure and water use
The listings state a 25mm or 35mm ceramic disc cartridge on most mixers. A ceramic disc cartridge uses two ceramic plates to control the water, and retailer guides describe it as smoother, better at shutting off over time and less prone to dripping than older designs. One listing says the cartridge can be adjusted to reduce the maximum temperature setting, which saves energy. Many listings state a maximum water pressure, usually 1,000 kPa, and some give 500 kPa, so check the figure against your supply. A stockist guide adds that rain spout and long reach fittings need more pressure to perform.
The listings also say that shower wall mixers and shower taps do not require a WELS rating under AS/NZS 6400, and the bath fillers show a rating where one applies, with litres a minute stated. So the water efficiency of a shower comes from the shower head and its flow rating, not from the tap. See the showers collection for heads and rails.
Finishes
The listings name the finish process for each colour. Brushed nickel, brushed brass, brushed gold, tiger bronze, lustre bronze and shadow are listed mostly as PVD finishes, and matte black, champagne and chrome as electroplated. A supplier guide says brushed finishes hide fingerprints and water marks better than polished or flat dark ones, that matte black shows soap residue and scratches more readily, and that chrome is easiest to care for and the easiest to match later. Soap and water marks are the main problem in a shower, so choose a finish you are willing to wipe. See chrome taps, black taps, brushed nickel tapware, brushed brass taps, gold taps, bronze taps, gunmetal tapware and champagne taps. Match the tap to the shower head, rail and arm, and to the basin mixer and accessories, in one finish: a stockist guide advises coordinating the shower with basin mixers, bath tapware and other accessories.
How a shower tap is replaced
Retailer and maker guides describe the same sequence for a like-for-like replacement of a pair of handles or a mixer trim. Shut off the water supply, and run the shower or open a lower tap until the water stops, so the pipes drain. Lay a towel under the work to protect the tiles and cover the drain so small parts do not fall in. Remove the tap button with a screwdriver, pull off the handle, unscrew the retaining collar by hand, then use a wrench to remove the retaining nut and the cartridge. Some dripping is normal and stops on its own. Take off the surrounding plate, clean the exposed threads to remove grit, and fit the new parts in the reverse order. Wrap thread seal tape clockwise around the threads that screw together, hand-tighten, then add a quarter to half turn with a wrench and stop at strong resistance, because overtightening strips threads. Seal the top and sides of the faceplate with silicone and leave the bottom open so any water behind the plate can drain. Turn the water back on slowly, check for leaks and tighten gently if anything drips.
Guides list the common mistakes: not shutting the water off, buying parts that do not fit the valve, wrapping tape the wrong way, overtightening, sealing the faceplate all the way round and losing small parts down the drain. Buy a new trim kit that matches your valve.
Do you need a plumber to change shower taps
The answer depends on the job and on the state. Changing a shower head, a tap washer or a jumper valve is work homeowners are generally allowed to do. Replacing the tap itself is different. A guide that sets out the rules says Western Australia and Victoria do not allow homeowners to replace kitchen or bathroom taps without a licensed plumber, and in New South Wales kitchen taps are treated as part of the drinking water system. It adds that DIY work can affect your insurance, that some products need professional installation for their conditions to apply, and that local council requirements may apply. Check your state's regulator, or use a licensed plumber.
A buying guide lists when to call a plumber whatever the state: complex or older pipework, hidden leaks, mould or damp walls, persistent drips, or any replacement of a valve or pipe that involves cutting into the wall. Wall mounted bath and shower mixers with an in-wall body fall into that category.
Looking after shower and bath taps
Wipe taps with a soft cloth and warm water, and add a mild non-abrasive soap if needed. Avoid harsh chemicals, abrasive cleaners and scouring pads, which scratch coatings. A plumbing supplier's guide says the most effective habit is to stop water drying on the tap, especially in hard water areas, so wipe the tap dry after a shower. Matte and PVD finishes need gentle wiping, and chrome can be polished now and then. A shower tap that drips after it is turned off usually points to a worn cartridge or washer, which is a repair, not a replacement of the whole tap.
Rough-in and fit-off: the in-wall body and the trim
A concealed shower or bath mixer is built in two stages, and makers sell the two parts separately. The in-wall body is the concealed plumbing component that sits behind the tile. It is installed by the plumber at the rough-in stage, before the wall is lined and tiled. The trim kit, which is the handle, the dress plate and the diverter control, is fitted later at the fit-off stage. One maker's rough-in kit for a diverter mixer includes a universal in-wall body with an adjustable set-out for different wall depths and an integrated plastic waterproofing sleeve. Its page says the water lines can be pressure tested before the fit-off stage, without the cartridge and without a connected hot water service. The same page gives an operating range of 150 to 500 kPa and 1 to 75 degrees Celsius, and says the kit pairs with the matching fit-off kits, in several finishes.
The practical benefit of this split is that you can have the plumbing done before you have chosen the finish. A listing for a round diverter in-wall mixer body from another maker says the body is sold separately from its finish and is required when you buy the matching trim kit. It says you can change the finish later, from the maker's colour range, without replacing the in-wall body. The same listing gives a flow rate of 18 litres a minute at 3 bar and a standard half inch BSP thread. Two cautions follow. First, the body and the trim must come from the same range, because a trim kit from one range does not fit the body of another. Second, check whether the mixer you are buying includes its body: some listings say so in the title, and others state that the trim kit is not included.
What a diverter does
A diverter mixer sends the combined hot and cold water to one of two outlets, such as the bath spout or the shower head, selected by a control on the handle or the plate. The Caroma Luna bath and shower mixer listing describes an integrated diverter that lets you change from the bath to the shower with ease. If the shower is separate from the bath, a plain shower mixer is enough, and a bath filler or spout handles the bath on its own.
Bath spouts, fillers and three piece bath sets
For the bath outlet, the listings give the figures that decide the fit. The wall bath spouts and bath mixers list spout reaches of around 225 to 228mm. The floor standing bath mixers list heights of 730mm and 910mm. Measure the distance from the wall to where the water should fall, and the height of the bath rim, before you choose. The three piece bath sets suit a traditional room. The Fienza Lillian Shepherds Crook bath set is described as a traditional three piece design for heritage, Hampton or farmhouse bathrooms. It has a PVD brushed nickel finish, cross handles with a quarter turn ceramic disc, and is suitable for mains pressure. Its box holds the bath spout, a hot tap, a cold tap, an in-wall kit and instructions, so the in-wall part is included. See bath fillers for the spout and mixer groups.
Care in hard water
A maker's page for an in-wall mixer body advises cleaning filters and aerators regularly and, in hard water areas, using a quality water softener and filter. Limescale on the visible parts wipes off with a soft cloth, and the guidance in the care section above on dry wiping applies. If the water flow from a shower mixer drops, the first thing to check is the filter and the aerator, before you replace any part.
Lead-free tapware
The National Construction Code requires lead-free tapware at the point of installation in Australia from 1 May 2026. The limit is 0.25 percent lead for copper alloy plumbing products that carry drinking water. A shower tap does not carry drinking water to a tap you drink from, but the listings for some brands state brass with less than 0.25 percent lead anyway, so read the listing if lead-free matters to you. See lead-free taps.
Check before you buy: a short list
- Is the in-wall body in the box, or sold separately, and does it come from the same range as the trim?
- Does the diverter fit the layout: a shower over the bath, or a separate shower?
- What are the spout reach and the height of the bath filler?
- Which finish process does the listing name, and is the maximum pressure within your supply?
- Who will install it, given your state's rules?
Complete the bathroom
Once the taps are chosen, the next decisions are the basin, the bath and the shower itself. See basin mixers for the vanity, bathtubs for the bath, accessible taps for assisted use, and the full taps collection for other rooms.
